Inner Fullness Options for the GG-KK Size Set of Lanai Wireless Pattern

For those who have been following my journey drafting for the this size set, it’s been a fun challenge with lots of ideas tested and some newfound knowledge gained. There isn’t a lot of resources when it comes to drafting for DD-GG cups (AKA Plus) and even less for GG-KK cups (AKA Curvy Plus) - which means grading info is next to zilch. Thanks to a lot of patience and help from my fabulous pattern testers, I was able to come up with something I am proud to put my name on.

The proportions of the GG-KK are not only different from from the DD-GG range but also different from each other! In the same sense that two people with the same bust, waist and hip measurements may need very different alterations (ie. sway back or full bust adjustment), two people with the same horizontal hemisphere may also need very different alterations. While these differences also exist in the smaller size sets, the larger bust {and small band} also means a larger variety volume distribution possibilities - hence this additional option.

Top down view. Note the square-ish shape of the inner full breast in blue.

These illustrations show the Inner Arc measurement, ideal location of the bust point inside side a bra, and where the bust point is often located respectively.

As a whole, people with GG-KK cups have a larger inner arc ratio (and smaller outer arc) then their smaller cupped peers. This often shows up in the form of inner fullness that sits on top of the neckline, flat spot near the CF or breast tissue pushed outwards in a east/west manner. There may also be wrinkles in the powerbar and less lift due to less tissue near the axillary area.

Measurements for the Lanai Wireless Pattern GG-KK Size Set ONLY.

The above chart shows the key components that make up the HH (horizontal hemisphere) measurement for the Lanai Wireless GG-KK. You can quickly check what the inner arc of your cup size is drafted for and compare to your body.

• If the number matches, great! No alterations are needed.

• If the number is greater, note now many sizes UP (in both Upper Cup and Lower Cup 2) and go the same number of sizes DOWN in the powerbar.

• If the number is smaller, note how many sizes DOWN (in both Upper Cup and Lower Cup 2) and go the same number of sizes UP in the powerbar.

• Goal - size up/down pattern pieces as necessary but maintain the same total HH.

Measurements for the Lanai Wireless Pattern GG-KK Size Set ONLY.

If you need to size up/down more than 1-2 sizes, you’ll want to take the middle arc into consideration.

• For every 2 sizes you need to go UP, you’ll need to go DOWN one additional size in the powerbar to maintain the same HH.

• For every 2 sizes you need to go DOWN, you’ll need to go UP one additional size in the powerbar to maintain the same HH.

• Goal - size up/down pattern pieces as necessary but maintain the same total HH.

This particular method works because the powerbar and the inner arc increases by the same number for the Lanai. So sizing up in one pattern piece while sizing down in the another pattern piece will yield the same total HH measurement. The “wireline” of the cup may no longer match the “wireline” of the cradle so some true-ing of the lines may be required but the volume is maintained - just distributed differently. This method also has the benefit of keeping the curve of the cup and seamlines without a ton of re-drafting.

Note this method maintains the seamlines (and curvature) of the cup. Those with significant amounts of inner fullness will need to increase the curvature of the seam while maintaining the total length. This is most easily accomplished with a flex ruler. Measure the inner arc seam then change the curve. Then transfer back to pattern piece. Alterations should be applied to lower inner cup only. Since the curvature of the cleavage area can vary greatly from person to person, we also recommend making paper cups (with a bit of tape) to check shape before moving on to fabric muslins.

Ideally, this Inner Fullness Alteration should applied after the Omega Alteration (if applicable) to minimize adjustments.

We do not guarantee the numbers will work for any pattern other than the Lanai GG-KK although the basic concept may still be applied.

Special thanks to Helena Sjöberg for coming up with this!