Sewing a Well Fitting Bra: Masterclass on Bra Fit
Master the science of underwire bra fit, one stitch at a time.
You’ve spent hours sewing, tweaking, adjusting — hoping this time the bra will finally fit just right. But instead, you’re left second-guessing your skills, your measurements… maybe even your body. The truth is, it’s not your fault. Bra fit is a language most of us were never taught — and once you learn how to speak it, everything changes. The Bra Fit Masterclass was created to help you finally understand the why behind the fit, so you can stop guessing and start sewing with confidence, clarity, and joy.
Join Lily in the ultimate deep dive into achieving your desired bra fit with discussions about methods, theories and ideas not typically covered. This eight week live virtual course prioritizes an in-depth approach to underwired bra fitting, with an overview of a variety of drafting approaches. You’ll learn how to make adjustments for different breast shapes (e.g. dealing with inner fullness, projection, etc) as well as torso shape (e.g. protruding ribs, etc) and some background info on industry standard drafting/grading techniques to aid in understanding.
Each week will focus on a different part of the bra fitting process, beginning with how to choose a size based on actual breast measurements and culminating in a finished, well fitting bra. Each two hour class will begin with a lesson on that week’s topic followed by methodical analysis of each participant’s fitting issues. The weekly homework assignment allows students to learn their specific pattern adjustments in class.
This is an intermediate level course. Participants should have made several bras, understand basic bra making terminology, and be comfortable making adjustments to flat patterns. It is expected that participants know the basics of sewing a bra, fitting band and tester cups. NO INSTRUCTION ON BRA CONSTRUCTION, DRAFTING OR GRADING WILL BE PROVIDED - ONLY ADVANCED FITTING TECHNIQUES.
Course Overview
Week 1
Finding your ideal wire size, style, and gauge - breast root trace and how to find that crease! Different wires for different bra styles
Week 2
Center gore and torso shape - cylindrical, pectus carinatum, barrel chest, protruding rib, double vs single spring etc.
Week 3
Fitting Band w/ wire analysis - discussions on wire types, shapes and gauges, back wing draft & grading analysis, case study
Week 4
Breast Shape Analysis - projected + narrow root, shallow shape, omega, inner fullness, uneven etc
Week 5
Strap Location Analysis - where should the strap land on the shoulder? Compare and contrast different methods.
Week 6
Personal preferences - taller side seams, camisole back, wing drop, side boning, lift fundamentals etc.
Week 7
Style line changes - vertical seam, diagonal, wireless, strapless conversion etc
Week 8
Project Showcase and open Q&A
“Absolutely a wonderful experience! I hadn’t sewn anything for nearly 2 decades but sewing with Lily gave me so much confidence and knowledge for being able to make bras on my own in the future. There was a ton of one-one-one time and Lily was so helpful and patient not only in guiding each step but also in modifying her pattern to adjust for the best fit. Such a unique experience that I’m so glad I tried it!”
“I was real pleased with the systematic approach to getting a fitting bra. Get pattern parts that are a close fit (under wires, cradle then cup). Trusting that process is key. Seeing a good fit is a goal. I am amazed with Lilly’s vision and would have loved more work in that direction. It was good to see examples and see results within the class. It is a class of self motivation as Lilly presents lots of information! Listen & learn. The class supplements were very helpful for needed adjustments.
Thank you”
“I thought the class was wonderful. I learned more about fitting and being able to see issues when looking at pictures. Lily was delightful to work with and I look forward to the Lingerie Retreat in the spring.”
Next Course Date
This is a LIVE* course which will run once a week for 8 weeks.
Tuesday Jul 1, 2025 - Tuesday Aug 19, 2025
9:30 AM - 11:30 AM Pacific (12:30 PM - 2:30 PM Eastern)
*This course includes live feedback of pattern adjustments for each participant and will include participants on camera for some of the class. To protect the privacy of class participants this class is unable to be recorded, therefore you must be able to attend during the listed dates and times.
Courses are typically held twice a year - Once it the Summer and once in the Fall to accommodate as many people’s schedule as possible.
NEW: Personalized Session Upgrade
Looking for more direct support during your Masterclass journey? This new add-on includes weekly 1-on-1 sessions throughout the 8-week course, giving you dedicated time to ask questions, troubleshoot tricky fit issues, and dive deeper into the material.
You’ll also receive six additional monthly sessions after the course ends — ideal for sewists who want continued guidance, whether you're refining your personal fit, supporting clients, or growing a bra-making business.
Tailored feedback. Real conversations. Support that grows with you.
Your Instructor
Lily Fong, owner of LilypaDesigns comes to you from an education background and with over 30 years of sewing experience. Frustrated with badly fitting retail bras, Lily discovered bra sewing and undertook several academic courses on lingerie pattern making from leading instructors. Lily has been professionally designing and fitting bras since 2018 and has helped countless customers achieve their fitting goals.
Required Tools and Equipment
Underwired bra pattern of your choice (any designer)
Bra-making supplies (we recommend recycled or bra muslin fabrics for fitting - save your fancy fabrics for when you’re happy with the fit!)
Curved and straight rulers
Pattern paper or tracing paper, cardstock and tape
Colored pencils or markers for pattern adjustments
Access to a sewing machine - no sewing is required during the live classes but homework will involve sewing fitting pieces
Access to computer with webcam and microphone
FAQ
Do I need previous sewing experience?
Yes! This is NOT a sewing workshop or sew along and it is expected that you will understand the basics of sewing a bra. This course is specifically for those who want to take their bra-making to the next level with intermediate - advanced pattern adjustment techniques and high level fitting analysis. No drafting instruction is included so prior experience with pattern alteration, truing lines and corner is required.
Do I need to be on camera?
During the class, Lily will provide analysis of the sewn pattern pieces on participants bodies (over clothing if preferred) in order to suggest adjustments. Having participants who are willing to be on camera during class gives Lily the ability to analyze the fit from all angles and so is our preferred method but we can accommodate those with modesty concerns.
