Center Gore Bridge Shape and Breast Anatomy
Did you know that the triangle between the breasts come in different shapes? Sometimes known as the Center Gore or Bridge, this tiny piece of fabric between the cups of underwire bras often hold the key to comfort.
Some people have a tall, skinny isosceles triangle while others have a short, wide isosceles triangle between the breasts.
In retail shop bras, many people settled for or gravitated toward bras with a low bridge to accommodate their center gore shape. In bra patterns, we were often told to add/remove a wedge to the center as part of the fit process.
When we add/remove a large wedge from the center gore/ bridge area, we also change the entire angle or wing drop of the bra band. This can cause the back to rise up (adding wedge) or band shrink (removing wedge). While traditional drafting rules tell you to add back in the same amount you remove (and vice versa), when it comes to bras, WHERE the compensating dart is added/removed also plays a role on fit. For those who have attempted drafting your own bra band, this is one reason custom drafted is superior.
Our latest pattern, the Lusamine, takes this often overlooked aspect into account by offering 2 different center gore options. Center Gore 1 is great for those with a tall, skinny triangle. Center Gore 2 suits those with a short, wide triangle. **NOTE** Both pattern pieces have the SAME bridge width at the top. These pieces have been tailored to fit the exact same underwire in the same rotation with the same front cradle width. The most notable difference is the double spring applied to both ends of the underwire vs single spring (common in US and Europe).