TUTORIAL - How to Alter the Bottom Cup Depth of the Liora Bra Pattern

Learn how to alter the Bottom Cup Depth (vertical length) while keeping the Horizontal Hemisphere (horizontal length) of a curved 3 piece bra cup! While this tutorial is tailored for the Liora Underwired Bra Pattern, the methodology can be used for ANY bra pattern with a similar seamlines. That said, this is ONE method of increasing/decreasing the bottom cup depth (BCD) of the cups in detail and utilizing the “Layers” option in Adobe Reader (FREE). For a primer using Layers in Adobe Reader, click [HERE]

IIn our previous sample [HERE], Heidi’s measurements indicate:

Horizontal Hemisphere (HH) = size 14.9cm/5.9”

Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) = size 12.5cm/4.9”.

This means she needs the volume of the larger HH but a shorter BCD. We can accommodate that by reducing the BCD of the 14.9cm/5.9” to 12.5cm/4.9”. Begin by removing the seam allowance.

Larger Cup Size and Smaller BCD

Maintain cup width (HH) and shorten bottom cup height (BCD).

Start by circling the corner of the smaller BCD and the corner of the larger size [blue]. Then draw a gently curved line connecting the two corners from the same pattern piece [red]. We want to maintain the width (Horizontal Hemisphere) while shortening the height (Bottom Cup Depth). If your adjusted pattern piece has the same width but is a little shorter, you’re done!

Smaller Cup Size and Larger BCD

Maintain cup width (HH) and extend bottom cup height (BCD).

Start by circling the corner of the larger BCD and the corner of the smaller size [blue]. Then draw a gently curved line connecting the two corners from the same pattern piece [red]. We want to maintain the width (Horizontal Hemisphere) while lengthening the height (Bottom Cup Depth). If your adjusted pattern piece has the same width but is a little taller, you’re done!

If you need to increase or decrease the BCD by quite a few sizes (say, 5+ sizes) ~ some cup reshaping maybe required. We highly recommend utilizing paper cups to ensure the seams and wireline are nice and smooth in addition to general shaping. Paper Cup and Cradle Tutorial