TUTORIAL - Omega / Narrow Root Adjustment Lazulite Bra Pattern
Learn how to adjust the Lazulite Bra Pattern for those with Omega or Narrow Root shapes. To begin, its important to know where the verticals seams should sit on the body. The 2nd vertical seam (closest to the underarm) should be just outside of the bust point, a mere 1~2cm (less than 3/4”) away. If this seam on your Lazulite muslin sits a too far back/forward from the bust point, or appears to be otherwise oddly placed, there’s a good chance you’ll need a Omega/Narrow Root adjustment.
Due to style and lack of horizontal seams in the bra, our usual method of reducing the wireline for a narrow root/omega adjustment doesn’t work here.
The overall concept remains the same where you want to maintain the width of the larger Horizontal Hemisphere (HH) size but the wireline length of the smaller cradle and wire size. Depending on the height of the breast root, you may need to keep the height of your larger HH or height of the smaller cradle size. In our tests where the BCD is 5 sizes smaller than the HH and the cradle is 8 sizes smaller than the HH, keeping the cup height the same as the BCD worked wonderfully.
Larger HH with Short Roots
Reduce cup height to match BCD and maintain width (HH).
Reduce cup height to match BCD and maintain width (HH).
We’re going to mix and match the smaller sized Inner and Middle Cup Pattern pieces with the larger sized Outer Cup Pattern piece. This also means we’ll need to adjust the seam lengths so everything matches again.
Reduce the BCD of the Outer Cup piece then adjust the width so the total HH measurement remains the same. This second part can be done 2 ways. 1.) redraw the seam to be ‘curvier’ and have more horizontal girth. 2.) Size up in the Outer Cup but maintains the same total HH. Reduce BCD and wire length as necessary. All that remains is ensuring the wire lengths match between the cup and cradle.
This method helps maintain the shape and/or cup projection with minimal distortion. Remember, none of the seams coincide with the bust point - ensure this continues to be the case when making alterations.
This chart shows the key components that make up the HH (horizontal hemisphere) measurement for the Lazulite Bra GG-KK. You can quickly compare the full HH and the Outer Cup Measurements.
If we sized down, note how many sizes DOWN (Inner and Middle Cup combined) and go the same number of sizes UP in the outer cup.
If we sized up, note now many sizes UP (Inner and Middle Cup combined) and go the same number of sizes DOWN in the outer cup.
Goal - size up/down pattern pieces as necessary but maintain the same total HH.
This particular method works because the powerbar and the inner arc increases by the same number for the Lazulite. So sizing up in one pattern piece while sizing down in the another pattern piece will yield the same total HH measurement. The “wireline” of the cup may no longer match the “wireline” of the cradle so some true-ing of the lines may be required but the volume is maintained - just distributed differently. This method also has the benefit of keeping the curve of the cup and seamlines without a ton of re-drafting.